Welcome to the no-BS guide to feeding your horse the right way. If you’re here, you’re probably sick of confusing labels, overpriced supplements, and barn aisle myths that get passed around like gospel. Good. You’re in the right place.
Let’s break this down into what actually matters—starting with the foundation of every equine diet: forage.
✨ Step 1: Forage First (and Why It Solves 90% of Problems)
If you own a horse, this is non-negotiable:
Your horse should have access to forage (hay or pasture) at all times. Not “twice a day.” Not “when I’m at the barn.” Constant. Free-choice. Full stop.
Why? Because horses are designed to graze for 16–20 hours a day. Their digestive system never stops moving, their stomach never stops producing acid, and their brain is wired for steady chewing and searching. Remove forage and you get ulcers, colic, anxiety, and behaviors like cribbing, pacing, or wood chewing.
A healthy gut needs fiber. Forage not only fuels the microbial engine in the hindgut, it also regulates hydration, maintains pH balance, and supports proper gut motility. No grain or supplement can replace that. This is the foundation. Everything else is just details.
What’s recommended:
- Are you unsure of what your horse should be eating?
The type of hay matters—some hays can be fed free-choice, others need limits. Knowing your hay’s nutrient profile helps prevent over-supplementation and lets you spot protein, calcium, or energy gaps before they cause problems.
→ What Should I Feed My Horse Daily? - Feed at least 1.5–2.5% of your horse’s body weight in forage daily
That’s 15–25 lbs per day for a 1,000 lb horse. Weigh your hay with a scale—flakes vary wildly in weight and guessing is almost always wrong. Spread the total over the full day, not just two big feedings.
→ Want to learn how much your horse needs and why? Read this. - Offer hay through a slow feeder (net, box, or ground feeder)
This stretches out chew time and mimics natural grazing. It prevents binge eating, reduces waste, and keeps the horse’s digestive system moving properly. There are options for stalls, paddocks, herds, and even travel.
→ Curious about your options? Compare hay feeding systems here. - Adapt feeding style based on the horse—not just the calendar
Easy keeper? Hard keeper? Senior? Performance horse? Feeding looks different for each. Some need higher calorie hays, others need forage diluted with straw or low-NSC options. Feeding should change with workload, weather, age, and metabolic needs.
→ Want feeding strategies for different types of horses? Read this. - Understand what happens when forage isn’t enough
Ulcers. Colic. Laminitis. Stress. Cribbing. Stall walking. Obesity. Anxiety. Metabolic issues. Lack of forage doesn’t just harm digestion—it affects your horse’s mood, movement, and long-term soundness. These aren’t random problems. They’re symptoms of a broken system.
→ Learn more about the real consequences of forage restriction here. (coming soon)
✨ Step 2: Evaluate What You’re Already Feeding
Before you reach for a supplement or start Googling “best feed for horses,” stop and take inventory. What is your horse actually eating right now? That means everything: hay, grain, balancers, treats, pasture, weird barn leftovers. Write it down, weigh it out, and look at the labels.
You can’t build a smart feeding plan until you know what you’re working with. Feeding horses isn’t just about throwing a flake and hoping for the best. It’s about matching the nutrients in the forage to the needs of the horse. And most owners have no idea what’s in their hay—or whether their horse even needs that scoop of feed.
Here’s what to look at:
- Hay type and amount
Not all hay is created equal. Orchard, timothy, Bermuda, alfalfa, mixed grass—each brings different nutrients to the table. Alfalfa is high in calcium and protein. Orchard tends to be softer but can be variable. Bermuda can work, but often needs protein support. If you don’t know what you’re feeding, start asking. Better yet, test it.
→ Learn about different types of hay. (coming soon)
→ Learn How to Test My Hay - Grain, ration balancer, or “complete feed”
Are you feeding it because your horse needs it, or because the label said “performance” or “senior”? Most horses on decent hay don’t need a full grain ration. Many do better on just a ration balancer that fills in missing vitamins and minerals without all the extra calories and starch. - Supplements
What are you adding, and why? Is it fixing a real problem, or just wishful thinking? If you haven’t tested your forage, you don’t know if your horse is deficient or overdosing on something.
→ I already tested my hay, does my horse need supplements?
✨ Step 3: Fill in the Gaps — Without Overdoing It
Once your forage is dialed in and you know what your horse is already eating, the next step is to fill in what’s missing—but only what’s missing. This is where a lot of well-meaning horse owners go off the rails with supplements, scoop stacking, and nutrition based on vibes instead of data.
Most horses on a forage-first diet aren’t lacking calories. What they usually need are specific nutrients that hay often falls short on. Here’s what commonly comes up low:
- Minerals
- Quality protein – Not just total protein, but key amino acids like lysine
- Fatty acids – Omega-3s in particular
Here’s what you might need to add:
- Ration balancer
A concentrated, low-calorie pellet designed to top up vitamins, minerals, and amino acids without all the starch and filler of regular grain. Ideal for easy keepers or horses who don’t need extra energy.
→ Learn more about how ration balancers work. - Loose mineral supplements
If your forage test shows specific deficiencies (low copper, high iron, etc.), a targeted loose mineral mix might be more effective than a commercial balancer. These give you flexibility to correct actual imbalances without layering on things your horse doesn’t need.
→ Compare mineral options here. (coming soon) - Protein sources
Alfalfa pellets, soybean meal, and flax are useful for boosting quality protein, especially lysine, methionine, and threonine. This is key for muscle, topline, hoof growth, and young or recovering horses.
→ What are my options for protein sources. (coming soon) - Fat sources
If your horse needs more calories without the sugar spike, fat is the safest energy source. Options include beet pulp, flaxseed, rice bran, and stabilized oils. Just don’t throw all of them in at once.
→ What are my options for fat sources. (coming soon)
Avoid the over-supplementation
More is not better. Oversupplementing can throw off mineral balance, waste money, and even cause toxicity over time. Guessing leads to overlap and excess.
That’s why forage testing matters. Don’t fix what isn’t broken. Build your horse’s diet around what the hay is missing, not what marketing tells you to buy.
✨ Step 4: Stop Feeding Based on Fear
This is where the horse industry really starts to bleed your wallet. Walk into any tack store or scroll through social media, and you’ll be bombarded with ads promising to fix your horse’s ulcers, calm their nerves, build better hooves, grow shiny coats, and support their joints—often with no data and zero context.
Supplement marketing thrives on fear. Fear of doing it wrong. Fear your horse is missing something. Fear of being judged at the barn. And they cash in big time when horse owners don’t understand what their horses actually need.
Don’t fall for these common traps:
- Calming supplements for boredom or stress
If your horse is weaving, cribbing, or pacing, that’s a management problem, not a magnesium deficiency. Behavior improves with turnout, forage, social contact, and enrichment—not paste in a tube.
→ Read more about fixing behavior at the root. (coming soon) - Hoof supplements that ignore mineral balance
A scoop of biotin won’t do much if your hay is overloaded with iron and low in copper and zinc. Hooves grow from the inside out, and it starts with the overall diet.
→ Compare hoof supplements here. - Sugary joint treats with mystery ingredients
A few grams of glucosamine in a molasses cube isn’t solving arthritis. Look at dosages, active ingredients, and whether your horse even needs joint support at all. Inflammation often starts with diet and lifestyle.
→ See evidence-based joint support options.
→ See natural anti-inflammatory supplements.
What your horse actually needs:
- Forage. Free-choice, species-appropriate, ideally tested.
- Movement. Hooves, joints, and digestion all depend on it.
- Balanced minerals. Based on forage analysis, not guesswork.
- Clean water and salt. Always. No exceptions.
- Enrichment. Social contact, turnout, and mental stimulation.
If that list isn’t handled, no supplement in the world is going to make your horse “better.”
Smart supplementation is strategic, not emotional. You might choose to support a horse with joint issues, metabolic tendencies, or digestive trouble—but only after the basics are nailed down. Throwing 12 products into a feed bucket isn’t thorough. It’s wasteful at best, harmful at worst.
✨Step 5: Rethink the Living Environment
Feeding a great diet is only half the equation. If your horse is stuck in a stall with nothing to do, they’re going to pay for it—in ulcers, tension, hoof problems, and behavior issues. How your horse lives every day directly affects their health, digestion, and sanity.
Horses aren’t designed to stand still. They’re grazing, moving, social animals. That means the living environment matters just as much as what’s in the feed bucket.
What’s recommended:
- Prioritize turnout and movement
More turnout is always better. If your horse can live outside 24/7 safely, that’s ideal. But if not, even a few hours of turnout is far better than none. Movement supports digestion, hoof health, and mental well-being. Standing still for long periods leads to stiffness, stress, and higher colic risk. - Understand the limitations of stall housing
Stalls limit movement, social interaction, and foraging behavior. That creates real problems: ulcers, anxiety, and behaviors like weaving or cribbing. Stalls can work if horses get enough time outside, enrichment, and forage access—but they shouldn’t be the default.
→ Learn the types of stabling (coming soon)
→ Learn how to design your own stables (coming soon) - Consider a track system (like Paddock Paradise)
This setup encourages horses to move naturally by creating a looped path around a central area, with hay, water, and enrichment stations spaced out. It’s one of the best ways to promote movement without needing massive acreage.
→ Learn about the Paddock Paradise System
→ See recommended fencing, feeders, and footing. (coming soon) - Think about how housing affects feeding and behavior
One hay pile + multiple horses = drama. Resource guarding is real. You need multiple hay stations (more than the number of horses), spaced far apart, with slow feeders to reduce waste and tension.
→ How to feed a herd.
→ Ideas for enrichment and feeding stations. (coming soon) - Cover the basics: fencing, footing, shelter, and water
You don’t need a fancy barn. But you do need:- Safe, visible fencing (coming soon)
- Dry, well-drained footing in high-traffic areas (coming soon)
- Open-sided shelter that allows horses to move freely (coming soon)
- Clean, accessible water (heated in winter if needed) (coming soon)
Give your horse a lifestyle that fits their biology. More movement, more choice, more social contact. Whether it’s a full track system or just smarter turnout, better housing means better health.
✨ Step 6: Choose a Feeding System That Works for You
You’ve figured out what to feed. Now let’s talk about how you feed it. Because the best hay in the world won’t help much if your horse vacuums it up in 10 minutes, fights over it with others, or stands around for hours on an empty stomach.
Feeding style directly affects digestion, mental health, and forage access. The goal? Slow, steady eating that mimics grazing. That’s where a good feeding system comes in.
What’s recommended:
- Use a slow feeder whenever possible
Horses are trickle feeders. Slow feeders stretch out hay consumption, reduce waste, and support gut health. They’re especially important if your horse can’t be on pasture full-time.
→ Compare top slow feeders here. (coming soon) - Hay nets and hay bags
Available in a range of mesh sizes and styles. Can be hung or fed at ground level. Choose smaller holes (1.25″ to 1.5″) for slowing down intake, and avoid hanging nets too high. Be cautious with shod horses—nets must be secured and placed safely.
→ See all about Hay Nets. - Hard-sided slow feeders
Options like the Porta-Grazer and OptiMizer are great for both individual and group use. Durable, long-lasting, and designed to reduce inhaled dust and hay waste. Best for horses prone to ulcers, boredom, or aggressive feeding.
→ Read about the Porta-Grazer.
→ Read about the OptiMizer. (coming soon) - DIY and budget options
Not everyone needs (or can afford) a $300 slow feeder. You can create functional systems using hay nets in barrels, slow-feed panels, or modified troughs.
→ DIY feeder ideas and hacks here. (coming soon) - Feeding loose hay
It’s quick and easy but comes with waste, uneven intake, and the risk of horses gorging then standing empty for hours. Works best when forage is unlimited, spaced out in multiple piles, and combined with turnout. - Plan for travel and shows
Hauling horses? Bring hay nets or travel-friendly slow feeders. Keep routines as consistent as possible. Stress + fasting = ulcer risk. Pre-fill nets, pack extra hay, and set up safe, portable feeding areas.
→ Tips for ulcer prevention during travel and competitions.
Choose a feeding system that fits your horse, your budget, and your setup. There is no one-size-fits-all—but every horse deserves a way to eat slowly, safely, and naturally.
✨ Step 7: Keep It Simple — But Keep Learning
You don’t need to be a vet or nutritionist to give your horse excellent care. You just need to start with the basics, question the fluff, and stay curious.
Great horse care is built on the three F’s: forage, friends, and freedom. Those aren’t cute slogans—they’re biologically essential needs. Horses are grazing herd animals who thrive when they can eat, move, and socialize freely. When those needs are met, everything else gets easier: behavior, digestion, soundness, even training.
What’s recommended:
- Focus on the foundations
The core of good care is always the same: free-choice forage, regular movement, clean water, and balanced minerals. These basics do the heavy lifting for your horse’s health. - Don’t aim for perfection, aim for progress
You will make mistakes. We all do. But intentional, informed decisions are what matter most. You don’t need a perfect setup—you need a plan, and the willingness to keep learning. - Keep building your knowledge
Want to go deeper into equine nutrition, welfare, and behavior? Here are some excellent resources:- Equine Nutrition Certificate from the University of Guelph – A respected, in-depth academic program for horse owners and professionals
- NRC Plus Course by Dr. Eleanor Kellon
- Mad Barn Academy (free science-backed nutrition education)
- EquiLearn (IAABC) – Excellent for behavior, enrichment, and stress reduction
- The Horse – Research-backed, vet-reviewed articles
- HorseClass – Training, handling, and horse-human relationship
- Work with qualified professionals
A good equine nutritionist or veterinarian should:- Start with forage, not products
- Understand hay testing and nutrient balancing
- Help you avoid oversupplementing If they ignore hay tests or push grain without context, keep looking.
- Stay curious and speak up
Ask questions. Read labels. Challenge outdated advice. You don’t need permission to advocate for your horse’s well-being. Share what you’ve learned, and help others move toward better care, too.
Bottom line:
You don’t need gimmicks. You need good hay, good footing, smart choices, and a willingness to learn. Keep it simple. Keep asking questions. And keep going.
→ Explore more research-backed articles here. (coming soon)
→ Start with practical product comparisons. (coming soon)
→ Have questions? Contact me here. (coming soon)
Bookmark this guide. Share it with a friend. And come back any time you need a refresh or a reality check. You’ve got this.